Robert Parker (96)
The 2013 Dom Ruinart Blanc de Blancs is another triumph from the late Frédéric Panaïotis. Disgorged in July 2023 after nine years sur lattes, with a dosage of 5.5 grams per liter—slightly higher than previous releases, tempering the brisk acidity of this cool, slow-ripening vintage—it wafts from the glass with deep aromas of fresh hazelnut, nashi pear, orange, hyacinth and bread dough, alongside the hint of Sichuan pepper and a subtle smoky note that only enhances its gently reductive, toasty signature. On the palate, it is medium- to full-bodied and chiseled, combining crystalline purity with vinosity, enlivened by a pillowy mousse and bright structuring acids, concluding with a precise, chalky finish. Expect a structurally more tightly wound version compared to the demonstrative 2009.
Winespectator (95)
A graceful Champagne, with a featherweight feel on the palate and precision detailing to the fine mousse. Yet this delicate touch belies the tightly meshed flavors of poached peach, lemon curd, roasted hazelnut and canelé pastry, plus accents of ground ginger, smoke and acacia blossoms, that reveal themselves as they expand through the lasting finish.
James Suckling (97)
Wonderful savory and toasty complexity. Aromas of toasted bread, mussel shells, chamomile, honey and dried citrus. It’s medium-bodied, silky and seamless, with a sharp backbone of acidity tying everything together. Reductive and intense.
Jancis Robinson (18)
Oyster-shell nose, lemon and green apple, a touch of smoke and toffee on the finish. Lingering savoury mushroom and river-pebble character – this is channelling good white burgundy, and has a few more years to go before entering its peak period.
Vinous (96)
The 2013 Dom Ruinart remains rather airy and light on its feet. Citrus peel, slate, chalk, mint and white pepper lend notable brightness throughout. This is a very pretty Dom Ruinart, but it is also not ready to drink. It remains a bit light texturally. It will be interesting to see if this fleshes out with more time in bottle. That said, the 2013 is coming along very nicely. October harvests have become exceedingly rare in Champagne. Dosage is 5.5 grams per liter. Disgorged: July 2023.
Decanter (97)
Dom Ruinart 2013 is a blanc de blancs of lithe, satin-smooth beauty already upon release, very much built around the reserved, cool energy of the 2013 vintage. This cuvée's new aromatic range, amplified since the 2010 release by toasty, spicy energy brought on by bottle fermentation under cork (sous liège), is very much at play. However, with undertones of roasting coffee, honey and fresh walnut playing with smoky gunflint and nougat richness as the gentle lemon, lime and even tropical fruit eases out with time in the glass. It's narrow rather than austere, gently sea-salt-savoury rather than lip-smackingly mineral or chalky – a Dom Ruinart with a long, long life ahead, but an equally rewarding window already opening up. Chardonnay from Le Mesnil, Avize, Chouilly, Bergères-les-Vertus, Sillery, Verzenay and Taissy, disgorged after nine years on lees.
