Professional reviews
Robert Parker (95)
Notes of anise, smoke, spring flowers and spices mingled with reduction preface the 2023 Ermitage l'Ermite Blanc, a satiny and concentrated, exuberant and vibrant white from Hermitage, with a deep, concentrated, multidimensional core of fruit, racy acids and a fleshy structure that's generous and enveloping, concluding with a long, saline and gently oaky finish. Matured in 400-liter barrels—smaller than the typical 600 liters—this powerful and dense wine demonstrates considerable promise and potential for evolution.
Jancis Robinson (18)
Just under 0.5 ha and planted with the oldest Marsanne on the estate (including some centenarian vines), on the top of the hill of Hermitage, on poor, shallow granitic soils. Certified organic and biodynamic. Cask sample.
The most aromatically intense of the three Ermitage whites in this line-up. More toasty/smoky and with a touch of struck match, but the nutty pear and citrus fruit shines through. Even a hint of clementine and white blossom as it opens. Many-layered aroma. On the palate, this is zesty and scented but not as powerful as I had expected from the aroma. Super-sleek and long with good freshness even though I suspect the acidity is not very high. Deep and long and then lightly salty on the aftertaste. A little more subtle and nuanced than Le Méal and equally intense. So hard to predict the trajectory of these wines, which so often go through a mid-life crisis before they re-emerge in all their complex glory. (JH)
Vinous (96)
The outstanding 2023 Ermitage Blanc L'Ermite dazzles with flinty traces, accompanied by fragrant chamomile, lemon flesh, yellow apple and toasty subtleties. Utterly refreshing, the 2023 carries mindboggling flavor concentration without being over the top. All the traits are just perfectly put into their place. Medium- to full-bodied and sapid, the 2023 is game-on.
Jeb Dunnuck (96)
Always more austere and chiseled, the 2023 Ermitage L'Ermite Blanc is medium gold-hued and offers intense aromatics of ripe orange and citrus fruits intermixed with crushed stone, honeyed almond, spice, and white flowers. It's concentrated, with medium to full-bodied richness, terrific balance, and a gorgeous finish. Made from 100% Marsanne and aged in 90% demi-muids (25% new) with 10% in stainless steel for 12 months, it needs 4-5 years of bottle age and will keep for two decades. Drink 2030-2050.
