Brunello di Montalcino La Cerbaiola 2010 Salvioni

Tasting Notes

The first sensation is the perfume. Dark cherry, dried rose, leather, a whisper of tobacco leaf and the iron-like nuances that Sangiovese from the eastern slopes of Montalcino usually exudes. On the palate, the Salvioni 2010 is dense but with classic galestro tension lurking beneath the fruit. The tannins are still firm and almost chewy. The acidity keeps things tight. This is a Brunello made for longevity, not for tonight.

Grape Varieties

Only one grape variety is allowed for Brunello di Montalcino DOCG:

Sangiovese (a clone of Sangiovese Grosso), known as Brunello.

So why does Salvioni's version taste so different from, say, Banfi or Casanova di Neri? Location. La Cerbaiola is on the outskirts of Montalcino, 420 meters above sea level, on the galestro (crumbly, schist-like marl). It is cool at night and has good drainage. This gives this Sangiovese an aromatic lift and grip.

Cellaring Potential

Drink between 2025 and 2040; the 2010 vintage was awarded five stars by the Consortium, and Salvioni made this wine to last. The tannins are still firm; store horizontally at 12-14°C and decant an hour before serving.

The Producer

Salvioni is a small company: just four hectares of vineyards on a 20-hectare estate, and only two wines come out of the cellar. So why has it become iconic? Because La Cerbaiola tops the list of authentic Brunello wines, along with Biondi Santi, Soldera and Cerbaiona. The story began when Giulio Salvioni bottled the first commercial vintage in 1985. Today, the business is run by his children, Alessia and David. Wine critics consider Salvioni one of the few Brunello producers who truly live up to expectations.

Terroir & Climate

La Cerbaiola is located about 4 km northeast of Montalcino, 420 meters above sea level, with three small plots facing east. The soil is a typical Tuscan duplex consisting of a mixture of calcareous shale, stony marl and gravelly shale. Why is it so important? There are two reasons. The high altitude provides cool nights, which helps preserve the acidity and flavors of Sangiovese even in warmer areas. Also, the limestone-rich, well-drained soils put stress on the vines and allow the fruit to concentrate without baking. This tension between ripeness and freshness defines Salvioni's style.

Winemaking

Salvioni works the vineyards by hand, pruning is strictly controlled, and yields are kept low at around 25-35 quintals per hectare. Fermentation and maceration take place in 40-hectoliter stainless steel tanks, with no temperature manipulation or extraction tricks. The wine is then placed in large Slavonian oak barrels (traditional 18-22 hectoliters) and aged for at least 36 months. Why large oak barrels? To allow the wine to breathe and integrate without adding vanilla or coconut notes. You taste Sangiovese and vineyard flavors, not oak flavors.

Food Pairing

Acidity and tannins are the driving force behind this wine. Some of the most effective:

• Bistecca alla Fiorentina, burnt on the outside, bloody on the inside. The wine's grip cuts through the fat.
• Pappardelle al cinghiale (wild boar stew). The gamey meat is paired with a savory wine.
• Aged Pecorino di Pienza, especially with chestnut honey.
• Peposo (Tuscan beef stew).

Served at 17-18°C. Decant young bottles one hour before serving.