Hillside Select 2019 Shafer

Tasting Notes

First off, the nose is impressive. Blackcurrant, crushed violets, graphite and curls of new cedar. The flavor is dense but not heavy, with dark plums and black currants pushed by firm, polished, almost powdery tannins. In the middle of the palate one senses notes of iron associated with volcanic slopes. The finish is long, with aromas of cocoa and tobacco. Ready to drink, but not quite finished.

Grape Varieties

Hillside Select is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. No Merlot or Petit Verdot is used, because the volcanic, rocky soils on the Stags Leap hillside have already softened it. The grapes naturally ripen with rounded tannins and become that "velvet iron fist" that AVA is known for. Blending only dilutes what this vineyard is telling us.

Cellaring Potential

Drink between 2027 and 2045. Needs a few more years for the tannins (from the skins and 32 months in new French oak barrels) to fully integrate; store at 12-14°C. Over time, the blackcurrant notes will give way to leather, tobacco and dried herbs. If possible, wait until 2030.

The Producer

Shafer is one of those Napa wineries where the winemaker actually runs the business. John Shafer left a career in Chicago publishing in 1972 to plant cabernet on an overgrown hillside and establish a winery there. His son Doug Shafer took over as president, and Elias Fernandez has been winemaker since 1984. In early 2022, Shafer was sold to Shafer Vineyards' new ownership, but Doug and Elias stayed on. We believe it is because of this continuity that Hillside Select continues to be recognized.

Terroir & Climate

Hillside Select vineyards are located on rocky volcanic soils in the eastern part of the Stags Leap AVA in Napa Valley. Why it's important. Volcanic rocks drain quickly and store little water, so the vineyards have to put down deep roots and feed on what they can get their hands on. The result is small berries and thick skins. Add to that south and southwest exposure, steep terraces, and evening winds blowing from San Pablo Bay through the Chase Cellars gap, and you have land made for structured Cabernet.

Winemaking

About 32 months in 100% French barriques (225-liter new barrels from Bordeaux). By any standard, that's a long élevage. However, the fruit from this volcanic site has the concentration to absorb it without turning to sawdust. Harvested by hand, the fruit is sorted using an optical sorting machine, and each small plot is fermented separately before blending. Since 2004, the farm has been solar-powered.

Food Pairing

The tannins here need fat and protein. Try:

• Dry-aged ribeye, simply salted and cooked over a wood fire.
• Roasted lamb thigh with rosemary and garlic.
• Aged hard cheeses, 24-month aged gouda or sharp cheddar.
• Short ribs cooked over low heat.

Decant for at least two hours, especially 2022; serve at 17-18°C.