| Classification | Cru Classe |
| Type | Red |
| Producer | Zuccardi |
| Vintage | 2016 |
| Country | Argentina |
| Region | Mendoza |
| Grape | Cabernet Sauvignon |
| Alcohol % | 14.5% |
| Volume | 0,75 |
| Condition | Perfect |
| Label | Perfect |
| Drinkable | -2040 |
| Stock | 24 |
The 2016 harvest in Mendoza was a headache for most growers. It was cool and wet, with low yields due to La Niña and fresh acidity rarely seen in Argentina. For Zuccardi's Finca Los Membrillos, which grows Cabernet Sauvignon in a single vineyard in Paraje Altamira, these conditions were just right. The resulting wines are finer, more flavorful, lower in alcohol and with a clearer sense of place than in warmer years.
The 2014 and 2015 vintages were not produced, because they were difficult years for the grape, so I tasted the 2016 Finca Los Membrillos, a single-vineyard pure Cabernet Sauvignon that was last bottled in 2013. It comes from a vineyard planted with a massal selection of the grapes that they bought. In 2016, they did a selection of two kinds of soils (in this case, the shallower soils because of the cooler and wetter year), then this was fermented in concrete and matured in oak barrels. These Cab grapes were picked in between picking Malbec grapes, which is not like it was done in the past, when Cab grapes were kept for last, and if you left them too late, they dried out and became very tannic. I think this wine transcends the varietal; yes, there are some spicy and peppery notes and it's balsamic, but it's mostly stony/chalky. It has fine-grained, chalky tannins, typical of the variety and the Altamira soils. This is serious, balanced and has good aging potential in one of the finest (if not the finest) vintages. 3,400 bottles produced. It was bottled in November 2017.
This is a pure cabernet sauvignon with green olives, hints of tobacco and currants. Green cedar, too. Medium to full body, round and chewy tannins and a flavorful finish.
The first thing you notice is restraint. Mint, graphite and faint herbal notes driven by the calcareous soils of Paraje Altamira. In the mouth, firmness rather than lushness. Fine tannins, firm acidity and a salty finish remind us that this is a Cabernet grown at over 1,000 meters above sea level. This wine will drink well now and into the early 2040s. Decant for one hour before serving.
Finca Los Membrillos is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon, which is a claim in itself in a region dominated by Malbec. So why exactly is the Cabernet in Paraje Altamira? The limestone soil and altitude of 1,050 meters above sea level give Cabernet what it needs: long ripening, firm tannins and fresh acidity. The cool 2016 also meant that the Cabernet was more herbaceous and cassis-like in flavor, rather than riper and jammy.
Drink between 2025 and 2040; the 2016 vintage gave this Cabernet Sauvignon strong natural acidity and firm but fine tannins. In cooler years, alcohol is lower and freshness lasts longer; store horizontally at 12-14°C, away from light; after 2030, the leather and tobacco flavors increase and the blackcurrant flavors fade.
The Zuccardi company did not start with wine. It began with irrigation systems. Alberto Zuccardi planted vines in Maipú in 1963 to demonstrate his technical skills. Since then, the family has perfected what came out of that accident: the third generation, Sebastian Zuccardi, shifted his focus to the high-altitude Uco Valley in the early 2000s and opened his current winery in Paraje Altamira in 2016. He is considered one of the most exciting producers in South America today, partly because he has moved away from the oaky, jammy style of Mendoza that made the region famous.
The Paraje Altamira winery is located in the southern part of the Uco Valley, which was granted Geographical Indication status in 2013. The soils are shallow sandy topsoil over a large gravel subsoil coated with calcium carbonate. This limestone coating gives the Cabernet Sauvignon its chalky tannins and salty flavor. At an elevation of approximately 1,100 meters, the region has hot days and cold nights. Rainfall is less than 250 millimeters per year. Without the melting snow from the Andes feeding the Tunuyán River, nothing would grow here.
The main attraction here is simple. Sebastian Zuccardi and winemaker Laura Príncipe ferment their wines in concrete tanks with indigenous yeasts and age them in concrete or large 2500-5000 liter neutral foudres. Why? To let the lime soil speak for itself, not the blend. And it is remarkable. It tastes of stone and fruit, not vanilla and toast. No pumping over to extract every last bit from the grapes. The result is a Cabernet that feels like an Argentine Cabernet, not something borrowed from Napa or Bordeaux.
Cabernet at high altitudes requires protein and some char. Remember the Mendoza classic:
Serve at 16-18°C. Decant about 1 hour before serving.
With track & trace code